Sunday, June 22, 2014

A Mitteleuropaisch Sojourn - Part 5, Days 9-10: Innsbruck


While Radhika and I are relatively easy going during our vacations, and tend to take things as they come, our friend, Ravi, is much more systematic. Consequently, he had a clear cut list of all the things that needed to be done in each of Innsbruck, Salzburg and Vienna.

Our bucket list for Innsbruck included travelling to Nordkette, a peak just outside Innsbruck, using the Nordkettenbahn, a cable railway system, which takes you from the centre of Innsbruck to Hafelkar, a peak that is 2000 metres higher in just about half an hour; the Alpenzoo, which was touted as the highest zoo in Europe; the Bergisel Ski Tower, where the ski jumping competition for the Winter Olympics was held; and the Swarovski Crystal World.

We decided to head out to Nordkette first. The Hilton Innsbruck is well located in the heart of the city, and it was just a brief 15 minute walk to the Congress building where the Nordkettenbahn station is located. On the way, we visited a tourist information centre, and purchased an Innsbruck pass, which gave us access to all the local public transport, and a number of key attractions. Needless to say, we did not proceed non-stop, but instead took our time taking a number of photos of the city. One of the primary attractions in the heart of Innsbruck is the Goldenes Dachl (or the Golden Roof), which was designed as a kind of Royal Box from where the kings could observe functions in the city. Personally, I thought it was rather ordinary looking – other buildings in the Altstadt or Old City were just as impressive. 
 
Some Pictures of Innsbruck's Altstadt 


 
 
 
The Goldenes Dachl


 
 

The Nordkettenbahnen comprise three interlinked cable based transport systems – the first, the Hungerburgbahn, is a funicular railway that starts in the city centre, traverses a beautiful bridge over the River Inn (which gives Innsbruck its name – bruck means bridge), and then climbs up the Alps to Hungerburg. The stations on this line are amazingly modern, and designed by an Architect called Zaha Hadid, who has designed a number of the impressive modern buildings in the region.
The Ultramodern Hungerburg station
 
 
The interesting thing about the cars on the Hungerburgbahn is that they are pivoted to remain horizontal even when the train is climbing a steep incline. From Hungerburg (which is about 800 metres above sea level), you take the Seegrubenbahn, a cable car, that takes you to the Seegrube station in the heart of the Alps, about 1900 metres above sea level. There is a beautiful restaurant here, which offers panoramic views of Innsbruck and the surrounding peaks. The final leg is another cable car that takes you to the Hafelkar station (2250 metres), which is just below the Hafelkar peak. There is also an amazing mountain biking trail that can take you down from Seegrube back to Hungerburg.

When we reached the Congress station where the Nordekettenbahn starts, Radhika suddenly noticed that Avinash was not carrying his back pack. Fortunately, he remembered that he had removed it at the tourist information centre where we had stopped to buy our tickets. I promptly ran back to the centre. I need not have worried, the bag was safely lying where he had kept it. Clearly, Austria can compete with Switzerland, not only in its scenic beauty, but also in the honesty of its people.
 
Avinash... with his bag
 


... And Without It
 

After this slight misadventure, we were on our way, settling down in the Hungerburgbahn on our way to the Hungerburg station. From there, we took the cable car up to Seegrube, and the next one to the Hafelkar station. The views from here were spectacular, and I will let the pictures do the talking.
Green Hills Lower Down

The Mountain Biking Trail



And Raw Rock Faces Above the Snow Line





There was a short walking trail from the Hafelkar station to the Hafelkar peak. Radhika, Avinash, Tanvi and I decided to hike up, while Ravi and Mandavi took care of Aryan, their one year old, who was understandably not keen on moving out of the warm surrounds of the station. After spending over an hour at Hafelkar, we returned to Seegrube by cable car, and had a meal (just Spaghetti with Tomato Sauce or deserts for veggies) at the restaurant there.
While the open air seating had spectacular views, thanks to Avinash’s aversion to smokers, we were forced to settle for the inside seating. If at all I have a crib about Germany and Austria, it is the absence of a ban on smoking in public places. Passive smoking is something that I am no longer used to, and as Avinash said, it is a noxious habit that stinks up the entire area.

After lunch, we headed down to Hungerburg, and decided to walk from there to the Alpenzoo, which claims to be the highest zoo in Europe. The collection of animals was nothing to write home about, but there was a nice kids’ play area, and Avinash and Tanvi had an enjoyable time there. What we found interesting is that they even had cows in the zoo.
The Path to the Alpenzoo




A Bear

And the Kid's Play Area



Eating Ice Cream Sitting in a Basket


It was late evening by the time we got back to our hotel.  Ravi and Mandavi had discovered an extremely interesting Pizza and Pasta joint called Vapiano, which had an outlet right outside our hotel. They had an extremely interesting smart card based ordering system, and live counters where your pizza or pasta was custom made for you. After the rather unappetizing spaghetti we had eating for lunch, having an extremely well made Aglio Olio was like heaven. We all concluded that this chain has potential in India, and for all I know, Ravi may be about to take their franchise for this market. Vapiano would prove to be our favourite dinner joint for the rest of our journey.

After dinner, Radhika, Avinash and I headed out for a postprandial stroll. While heading back, we spotted a EUR 20 note lying on the ground. We debated whether to pick it up, but decided that perhaps someone would come looking for it – and decided to leave it lying there. As we walked past it, a bunch of kids walked in the opposite direction, and the note promptly disappeared. I guess even the Austrians can’t resist the allure of cash lying on the ground.
Some More Shots of the Altstadt



 

The next morning, we headed out for the Bergisel Ski Tower. This was a bit further away, and walking all the way was not an option.  But instead of taking our cars and hunting for parking, we chose to take the electric bus. (Which is powered by overhead wires like a tram or train). The willingness of skiers to risk life and limb by jumping off this sort of a fall really amazed me. In fact even in the absence of snow, there were professionals who were “dry slope” jumping, which was something I had not realized could be done. From our  perspective, the views made it worthwhile.

There were Several Three Wheeled Bikes Racing Up and Down the Road to Bergisel
 
 
Some Views from Bergisel



 
 

After spending some time at Bergisel, we debated what we should do that afternoon. I was not very keen on the Swarovski museum, which I had heard was rather kitschy, and debated whether we should go for a long drive into the hills instead. But I was promptly out voted, and so we got into our cars and drive down to the Museum. Before going, Avinash had said he was tired and not keen on going anywhere. But somehow, he seemed to enjoy the place a lot, and ended up posing for numerous photos.
 
The Swarovski Museum - Located Below the Mound of Grass in the  Background









 

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